Padang earthquake, Sumatra

     Padang beach: hope these people are safe.

As reports of the scale of destruction of the Padang quake get to the outside world, we become numbed with shock and horror. Where there was once a bustling city, it's now in utter chaos and ruin.

The Hotel Mariani International, where I stayed earlier this year, is completely destroyed. It's a relief that a Singaporean who was trapped inside was finally freed.

We can only hope and pray that thousands of other Indonesians will have survived.

I'm prepared to volunteer in Padang if any organisation needs a pair of extra hands (pass the word round).

7.6 quake off Padang, Sumatra

A horse cart in Padang, Sumatra

Before you travel, do you check up on the weather of your destination? I always do. Knowing that it's hot or cold is not enough. I'd like to know how hot is hot and how cold is cold. I'd also like to know if it is the rainy season or the typhoon season. Such knowledge will help you to pack the right clothes, and bring the appropriate stuff.

I had wanted to go to Manila. Thank God I didn't. I'd checked up and discovered that around this time of the year there is the threat of typhoons. Much of Manila now is flooded, and 140 people killed as a result of Typhoon Ketsana.

But one of the things that no one can predict is earthquake - like this one which hit Padang resulting in 75 deaths and thousands being trapped. Although Padang lies on the western side of Sumatra yet tremors were felt in Singapore.

It was only in January this year that I was in Padang. Being in the wrong place at the wrong time can ruin your trip. It may even be disastrous to you.

Rice Fields in Maninjau, West Sumatra

There is no sight more humbling and wonderful than a rice field. Billions in Asia depend on the humble rice as their staple food.

Passing by rice fields I'd pause to gaze in wonder at something that looks so fragile and insignificant like blades of grass but will eventually feed billions of people.

Rice cultivation in Maninjau, West Sumatra

Pic: Rice farmer in Maninjau


Pic: Rice cultivation extends from slopes of mountains to the edge of Lake Maninjau (click to enlarge)

Lake Maninjau or Danau Maninjau, to give it its Indonesian name, is one of those volcanic areas in Indonesia which can support padi (rice) or paddy cultivation. Rice is a staple food for Asians so though I've seen many a rice field I never cease to wonder at the sight of padi cultivation. Walking on the bunds in the rice field, taking care not to lose my balance, and observing the rice seedlings were exquisite experiences for me.

The rains had come, signaling the start of the padi planting season.

I met a farmer taking shelter from the rain.

"How old are you?" I asked him.

"Fifty-eight,'" he said.

"Still young."

"But I don't know why my hair has turned white."

"It's natural," I assured him. "How many children have you?"

"Seven," he said proudly.

"Seven?"

"Yes, seven."

Lake Maninjau in West Sumatra, Indonesia

Pic: By day it's a charming peaceful spot; by night it swirls with spirits and ghosts. A flashlight at night will prove useful. (Click on pic to enlarge it)

As Maninjau is subject to power failure or brown-outs it was fortunate I brought along a flashlight. It happened all the three days I was there.

If you are the sort who have a bladder issue and must take a leak every now and then at night a flashlight will prevent you from crashing into the flimsy walls of your budget room and causing a catastrophe.

Since most of the accommodation is situated by the lake side, visitors need to walk in the village lanes which can be quite dark at night. A flashlight may prevent you from plunging headlong into a muddy ditch, and emerging transformed in appearance. Imagine the effect on passing villagers steeped in superstitious beliefs in spirits and ghosts.

Accomodation in Maninjau, West Sumatra (Indonesia)

The best of the budget accomodation in Lake Maninjau (Danau Maninjau) is Muaro Beach Bungalows in Maninjau Town.

Reasons:

• cheap at 50000 Rp
• near the lake
• has own restaurant on edge of lake
• bungalows and restaurant just renovated
• convenience of being in town
  

As there is nothing much to do in Maninjau once darkness falls, it's vital to have a restaurant where you can eat and socialise.

A popular travel guide raves over Riak Danau, but when I checked it out it was run-down, lacks a restaurant and had hardly any guests unlike Muaro Beach Bungalows which was full during the three days I stayed there.

The best accomodation in Maninjau costs from 175000 Rp to 350000 Rp. The cheaper rooms don't face the lake.

Bukit Tinggi to Lake Maninjau by "Harmonius" bus Part 2

Descending down to Lake Maninjau the bus driver had to negotiate 44 hair-pin bends. One misjudgment would have sent the bus hurling down the steep hillside and crushed us to bits as easily as King Kong crushing hostile fighter jets, and onto the frontpages of newspapers.



Pic: "Harmonius" bus speeding in Maninjau.

Signage at each bend with huge numbers painted on them helped in the countdown to the bottom of the hill.

As the driver swung his ageing and overloaded bus round each bend with nonchalant aplomb, I grew anxious and glanced worryingly at the plastic bags swinging from the grab handle above.

The spectacular view of the lake below took my mind off my discomfort.

At 4.30 pm the ancient bus roared into the sleepy town of Maninjau. Phew!

Padang to Bukit Tinggi (West Sumatra, Indonesia)

The Indonesian uncle drove like a speed demon. Any crash would have sent us to the mortuary! Fortunately the road from Padang to Bukit Tinggi 90 km away was good with few potholes unlike the roads to Lake Toba.

Anything that moved earned a blast of the horn from the driver. Anyone too tardy to get out of the driver's way attracted a torrent of verbal abuse. His favourite term of abuse was "Dog!"

In about an hour we arrived in Bukit Tinggi which at an elevation of 930m is slightly cooler than the lowlands.

The Indonesian guy next to me in the MPV was kind enough to take me to the bus terminal, Aur Kuning, from where there were mini-buses going to Lake Maninjau.

Padang to Lake Maninjau

Man in blue shirt on right hustling for passengers for airport bus



Wanderings in West Sumatra, Indonesia
(Singapore to Padang, Bukit Tinggi and Lake Maninjau)

After immigration clearance at Padang airport in West Sumatra, which was hassle-free and fast, I poppped into a toilet to do my usual "Superman" act -changing out of my formal long-sleeved shirt and long pants into my casual cargo shorts and sleeveless T-shirt. The toilet attendant stared at me, perhaps wondering what this lunatic was up to.

Afraid I might miss the airport bus, I hurried out. Taxi touts shouted "taxi?" but I ignored them and acted as though I've lived in Padang for 20 years. Fortunately, the Damri bus was parked next to the airport.

"Minang Plaza?" I asked a uniformed guy leaning against the bus. He nodded.

"Ongkos-nya berapa?"(How much is the fare?).

"Tiga belas ribu," the guy said. (13,000 Rp)

I hopped energetically on board, relieved that I'd made it on time.

Glancing at my cheap Casio watch (bought specifically for the trip), I noticed it was still very early. Hmm...good, still 9.30AM. I like to arrive in a foreign land early.

After 30 minutes, we were still going no where. All that haste wasted. I could have had my breakfast or explored the airport or something.

Only when the bus was full after about an hour did the driver materialise, and drive away.

This perfectly gives meaning to the Indonesian culture of "rubber time".

On Tiger from Singapore to Lake Maninjau, West Sumatra

Would you believe it? Thanks to Tiger Airways, my return ticket from Singapore to Padang in West Sumatra cost me the "princely" sum of SGD $58!

Padang is the nearest airport to Lake Maninjau or Danau Maninjau to give it its Indonesian name.

Before you realise it in just under an hour the pilot jolted me with the terse announcement that we'd be landing in Padang which in Indonesian means "field". But we'd not be arriving in a god-forsaken place but the capital of west Sumatra.

Like all small airports the world over, the welcoming folks enjoyed the excitement of an incoming flight. For them it's more exciting as they are not spared the roar of jet engines unlike those cocooned in huge modern airports.