On the hunt for the Rafflesia in Sarawak

On this fouth visit to Borneo I was lucky to see the Rafflesia flower, the largest flower in the world. Perhaps, it has something to do with the fact that May is my birthday month. It can grow up to 1 metre in diameter, but the one I saw was only about 50 cm.

This one was already 4 days' old and decaying but surprisingly there was no odour. Flies were already buzzing around it.

 

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Being parasitic, the Rafflesia attaches itself to a vine.

The vine it attaches itself to leads up to the trees.

A Rafflesia bud.

A close-up of the inner recesses of the flower.

The Rafflesia is not only "exceedingly rare" but also highly endangered.

Gunung Gading, near the small town of Lundu in Sarawak, is home to the Rafflesia.

 

How to get there

First get to Pasar (market) in Kuching where there are buses/private vans that go to the Terminal (lost-distance bus terminal) for the three-hour bus ride to Lundu.(10 ringgit). Bus leaves 4 times daily with the first one at 8am. I missed the first one and had to wait for the next one at 11.

Once at Lundu, private "cabs" will take you to Gunung Gading for 5 ringgit each (15 minutes)

It's advisable to stay the night at Lundu. Tell you where Lundu "Hilton" is in my next post.

Trekking in Bako National Park: Senior citizen shows the way

Senior citizen George from Singapore, in his mid 60s, tackled the trail with aplomb. He did not put a single foot wrong throughout the strenuous 4-hour trek, and emerged without a single scratch. Well done, George!

A friend asked, "Won't you get lost?" The trails are all colour coded but if you're colour blind then, yes, it's possible to get lost. But be like Boy Scouts: be prepared.

 Remember Jim Thompson, the silk king who vanished in the Cameron Highlands

in 1967? Till today the case remains unresolved. Hey, am I frightening you? LOL

Bako National Park, Sarawak Part 3 (final)

Canteen: reasonably priced food and drinks. Beer drinkers will rejoice.

Storm brewing at Bako.

In the evening what better way to while away the time than...

to watch the sunset?

Western backpackers clambering on board for the return trip.

Boatman Anuar: "Sometimes backpackers cheat me by claiming they've paid the fare."

Bako National Park, Sarawak, Part 2 of 3

My purpose in going to Bako was to trek and  to see some wildlife particularly the proboscis monkeys which thrive here.

A 15-minute boat ride was all it took to reach Bako. As it was low tide, we had to get off some way from the beach and wade in the water (wear slippers).

Bako beach

                               Four hours later, I'd not have the energy to smile for the camera.

                               The easy part but it gets tough as the trail climbs and dips endlessly for four hours.

I was on the lookout for croc. None : (

The varied terrain.

Scorching hot. Sweat was pouring off my limbs like a leaky pipe.

One misstep will send you tumbling into the stream. Hot, hot!

A glorious view from the hilltop.

Don't be a hero. Bring food, snacks and two big bottles of water. Heat stroke is a possibility so consider a hat/cap or umbrella.

I was disappointed in not being able to spot any wildlife. But Bako is rich in birdlife, and I was delighted to spot some birds I'd never seen before.

Sarawak: Bako National Park, Part 1 of 3

Jetty: Boats to Bako. 9 ringgit  per person or 47 ringgit to charter a whole boat.

Once again the lure of the Land of the Hornbill (Sarawak) proved irresistible.  This time it was Bako National Park, and the chance to see the largest flower in the world, the Rafflesia.

The good thing about Bako National Park is that it's easily reached from Kuching.

                                Boat speeding towards Bako. It takes 15 minutes across open sea to reach Bako.

Welcome to Bako

                                Canteen at Bako. Has satellite TV!

Most people stay at Bako. Cheap dorms and rooms available but no air-conditioning. Mine was a semi-d with attached toilet (52.50 ringgit) but even with a fan the room was warm at night, and I had a fitful sleep.

How to get to Bako from Kuching

Hourly bus leaves from Pasar (market) area starting from 8am. Takes about an hour to reach the jetty. Fare: 3 ringgit.

Thailand's political unrest: GAIN for INDO-CHINA

According to a Straits Times report, the political unrest in Thailand has made travellers from Singapore look at other travel destinations like Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia.

Those who have not travelled to Indochina will be pleasantly surprised at how affordable these countries are apart from the fact that they're just a short plane ride away.

Having been under France's colonial rule, these countries still retain traces of French influence. To me the best example are the cosy cafes, especially in Vietnam.

Unless you're on Forbes list as one of the richest in Singapore, most people think of cost when they travel. Having travelled in all the Indo-Chinese countries, I can tell you that the cost of accommodation, food and transport is extremely affordable as pointed out earlier. I hesitate to say "dirt-cheap".

For instance, for US $5 to $15 you can get a nice double room with an attached shower and toilet (even air-conditioning at the higher end).

Venturing a bit further is the gem of an island in Sri Lanka. Travel features in newspapers and magazines routinely rave about the island.

So Thailand's loss is other countries' gain.

Unmistakable example of French influence in Laos. Do you know why?

                                Vang Vieng in Laos will reward those who make the effort to get there.

Travel to Hainan Island: warning on accommodation

Hainan Island has officially declared itself an international tourist destination.

Being the only Chinese tropical island, Hainan is very popular with domestic tourists and Russian tourists, particularly during winter months.

When I was in Hainan in January, I was really surprised to see hordes of Russians in Sanya. Everything was geared towards the Russians, For the first time, I saw signboards written in Russian.

That's why accommodation in Hainan is becoming increasingly hard to find.

My advice is to book your accommodation or you might be forced to stay in tents (not free) during peak periods!

Cheers!