
It says it all.

Tut-tut driver brought me to see two guesthouses but I finally settled on my original one: the weirdly named "Shadow of Angkor Guesthouse" for US$15. Everything here is richly "wooden". Housed in an old French building, it overlooks a sluggish river. Has paid internet access.

There's a nice restaurant below the Guesthouse, and with tempting prices like these my customary high tea was replaced by "high beer". US prices notwithstanding.

I rented a bike at US$3 and cycled around town and to Angkor Wat.

Looking down from my balcony I watched these Cambodian ladies laughing and gossiping. At this point all my fears about residual Khmer Rouge fighters still lurking in the shadows vanished. I breathed easy from then on.